Sunday, May 22, 2011

Berlin

From Prague, we went directly to Berlin for a 4-day Fulbright Seminar with over 300 current American grantees in Europe and next year's German grantees to the U. S. After checking in at the Park Inn Alexanderplatz, we were herded onto a bus for a guided tour of the city. Our tour guide talked non-stop about the political history in Berlin since WWII and the significance of the sights we passed on our way. The different effects WWII had on East and West Berlin is still very apparent. In the West the city is dense and well-developed, while in the East there are still large open tracts of land. The photo above was taken in Potsdamer Platz and shows a remnant of the Berlin Wall in the middle of a large, new development - an interesting juxtaposition of the past and present of Berlin. During the tour, we made short photo stops at the West End Gallery - a section of the Berlin Wall covered in murals by famous modern day artists - and the Brandenburg Gate, shown in the photo above. It was amazing to see places that played such prominent roles in very recent history - much more awe-inspiring than cathedrals and forts from centuries past... One of our favorite places in Berlin was the Holocaust Memorial. The rectangle stones are deceivingly small on the outskirts of the memorial which covers the area of a city block. But once we walked in just a few yards, the stones were significantly taller plus the ground sloped downward. We almost lost each other when Meghan turned a corner without Rolf noticing! Some teenagers were sadly using the memorial for a loud game of Marco Polo - completely missing the point of the memorial as a quiet place to contemplate a very serious event in world history. The rest of our stay was interspersed with conference events and a lot of sightseeing. Luckily, our hotel was located within walking distance of most of the major sights and museums in Berlin. The photo above shows a bridge leading into the Museum Island on the right. You could still see pockmarks from WWII gun fire in the stone columns and facades of the museums! Our hotel is the left of the 2 tall buildings visible in the distance beyond the bridge. The photo above shows the view from our hotel window on the 27th floor. All of the Fulbright rooms faced away from downtown, but we really enjoyed our view nonetheless. Much of the East Berlin that has been rebuilt after WWII was with high modernist urban planning: long, narrow apartment buildings and large public spaces.

Sunday, May 15, 2011

Prague

In mid-March, we visited Prague, part 1 of our 3 week central European tour. (Part 2 was Rolf's Fulbright Seminar in Berlin and Part 3 was Meghan's research lab visit in Zurich.) In Prague, we spent 4 nights at the Golden City Hotel in a residential neighborhood just beyond downtown. It wasn't exactly located in the most "golden" part of town - there was a XXX video store across the street - but it was cheap and safe!
(CLICK ON THE PANORAMA TO ENLARGE)
The first morning, we checked in with our "Best of Prague" walking tour guide in the Old Town Square (see photo above). She was holding a large, orange umbrella, and it wasn't just for show - it was raining. The first sight on our tour was the Astronomical Clock. Last year, it celebrated its 600th year in operation! Every hour on the hour it has an elaborate moving display and a trumpet call from the bell tower. The clock was such a mechanical masterpiece that the town council members blinded the clockmaker once he was finished to prevent him from creating another one anywhere else - or so the legend goes... Then we were off to Prague Castle - a large complex of government buildings overlooking the city. In the center of the complex is St. Vitus Cathedral. It was built over many centuries, beginning in the early 900's as a basilica and morphing slowly into a high Gothic cathedral. It was still raining, so the church was packed with tourists trying to stay dry. St. Vitus is the church peeking over the rooftops in the photo above. From the Castle, we walked down the romantic Old Castle Steps into Lesser Town, a quaint maze of narrow, cobblestone streets lined by shops and restaurants in old 5 story buildings. It was much less chintzy or touristy than the area surrounding Old Town Square. We liked the atmosphere of Lesser Town so much, we spent most of the following day wandering up and down the narrow streets.
(CLICK ON THE PANORAMA TO ENLARGE)
We ended the tour by walking across the Charles Bridge. Built in the 1400's, this stone bridge was historically important as a major trade route in Europe. In modern times, the Charles Bridge is best known as a set for Hollywood movies - Mission Impossible and the Bourne Identity to name a few... During the summer the bridge is packed with tourists, artists, and vendors. Thirty large stone sculptures line the bridge, one of which is shown in the following blog post.
Having eaten out only a few times in Norway, we were ecstatic to eat at a restaurant every night in Prague. Most of the menu items consisted of some variety of meat in a dark gravy sauce served with knedlik (bread dumplings). Where were the green vegetables you say? Nowhere to be found in Prague!

Prague, Part II

Looking through the 15th century tower at the end of the Charles Bridge into Lesser Town
St. Vitus Cathedral in Prague Castle
A narrow, cobblestone street in Lesser Town
Wet tourists entering Prague Castle with St. Vitus Cathedral in the background
One of the 30 elaborate sculptures lining the Charles Bridge

Kutna Hora

To see a little of the Czech Republic countryside, we took a day tour to two nearby UNESCO World Heritage Sites: Kutna Hora and Sedlec. Kutna Hora was a major European city in the 14th to 17th centuries due to prosperous silver mining. The neighboring town, Sedlec, is the site of the Gothic Cathedral of our Lady and the famous Ossuary... Yes, Ossuary, as in bones, human bones. An abbot in the late 13th century went to Palestine and brought back a small amount of earth from Golgotha and sprinkled it over the church cemetery. Wealthy people began paying to have their bodies buried on "holy land." When the cemetery was full, the church excavated older bones and stacked them in a chapel beneath the church to make room for more "patrons" in the cemetery. Some of the bones were arranged to form elaborate wall hangings, chandeliers, and molding. In the photo above, Rolf is standing among the bones in the Ossuary. Next stop was Kutna Hora, where we went inside St. Barbaras Church from the 1300's. Most of the church was finished within the last few hundred years, but it has some original fresco paintings from the 1300-1400's that depict scenes of daily life in a silver mining town. The photo above is a view of the vaulted ceiling and clerestory of St. Barbaras Church. From the church, we walked into the historical downtown of Kutna Hora, seen across the valley in the photo above. Later we went on a tour through the old silver mint and saw silver coins that were minted 500 years ago! Then we had just 35 minutes on our own to explore the old town square before getting back on the return bus to Prague. We had failed to take a picture of the exterior of St. Barbaras Church (thinking we would have plenty of time after the guided portion of the tour), so we ran, quite literally, to the church and back. On our way we took a sightseeing detour through the streets in the old part of town, shown in the photo above.

Wednesday, April 13, 2011

Landlord...

... not who we pay our rent to, but who we buy our food from! The generic food brand sold in Rema1000 grocery stores in Norway is named Landlord - from which we buy a lot of food. So, what do we eat here in Norway? Surprisingly, we eat meals very similar to those we ate in Minnesota. Of course, this is achieved primarily by bypassing the entire fish and seafood section in the grocery store. After 8 months, we're still a little disturbed by the sight of fish balls and whole frozen fishes (scales and all!). Breakfast (Frokost): We start each day with a bowl of cornflakes with skummet melk (skim milk), and a bowl of müsli (granola mixed with oatmeal) with vanilje yoghurt (vanilla yogurt) and rosiner (raisins). Fortunately, the names of many food items in Norwegian look very similar to their English counterparts! Notice that the cereal and raisins shown in the photo above are all Landlord (or Rema1000) brand! The company, Tine, has the monopoly on dairy products in Norway - and Norwegians love their dairy. One of the more endearing things we've seen is college boys walking around campus carrying several bananas and a 1 L carton of milk. Their mid-morning snack, perhaps? Lunsj (Lunch): For lunch, we eat a cheese, meat, pickle, and mustard sandwich with chips, an apple, cookies, and sometimes a carrot. It is custom in Norway to eat sandwiches open faced, often with liver or fish paste. We've seen many students on campus bring what appears to be a large stack of bread slices for lunch. On closer inspection, each slice of bread is adorned with meat paste or a slice of cheese and carefully separated from the next slice of bread by wax paper. Some of the food items shown in the photo above are: skivet ost (cheese slices), servelat (bologna, and one of the few meat products we can actually afford in Norway), røkt familieskinke (smoked ham, because we can't only eat bologna), agurker (sweet pickles, dill pickles aren't sold in Norway - sigh...), kneippbrød (everyday bread, very cheap - only $1 per loaf - and, it's bakery style bread not melt-in-your-mouth American Wonderbread). Middag (Dinner): We have managed to put together a small, but diverse, dinner menu on a very tight food budget by Norwegian standards (~$100/week) - light on meat, heavy on Landlord items! 1. Spaghetti and garlic bread - made with Landlord noodles, Landlord pasta sauce, Landlord baguettes, and Landlord marinated garlic. 2. Stir fry. There is a wide variety of Uncle Ben's Asian sauces available but Szechuan sweet and sour is our favorite. The price of fresh vegetables nearly doubles in the winter, so we sometimes use a frozen vegetable mix for our stir fry. Also, notice the shrink-wrapped red bell pepper in the photo above - cucumbers and broccoli are also sold individually shrink-wrapped but we're not sure why. 3. Mozzarella, tomato and pesto sandwiches on ciabatta bread. This was one of our favorite "summer garden" meals in Minnesota, but thanks to Landlord ciabatta bread and Landlord pesto sauce, we eat it year-round in Norway. And, fresh mozzarella is one of the few types of cheese we've found in Norway besides the ubiquitous Norvegia (swiss-like) or brown cheeses. 4. Burritos. Nearly an entire aisle in the grocery store is devoted to ingredients for tacos and burritos. We usually make rice and black bean burritos, but sometimes we splurge on chicken and make fajitas. 5. Tikka Masala chickpeas and couscous. One of the foods we thought we wouldn't find in Norway is Indian food, but it turns out it's quite popular here - there are several brands of tikka masala sauces to choose from. 6. Pizza. Like in the U.S., there are countless frozen pizza varieties and brands sold in Norway, but they also sell all the tasty ingredients needed to make your own! 7. Drum roll please... Hot dogs! With chicken at almost $14/pound, can you blame us?

Monday, March 14, 2011

Norwegian Sweaters

So, what did we find on our shopping day? See below! Many of the sweaters were disappointingly similar to sweaters in America. Fashion is truly global!
We couldn't help but be drawn to this sweater - although maybe not for its beauty...
We also stopped at a few of the local Fretex (Salvation Army second-hand) stores where we found this beautiful blue wool coat...
... and this red sweater. You can see some of the other random items for sale at Fretex in the mirror's reflection.
We also found this traditional Norwegian sweater at a Fretex - just Meghan's size! Look for her roaming the streets of St. Paul in her new knit sometime soon!

Kjøp, kjøp, kjøp!

On the last Saturday in February, we finally took part in the new Norwegian pastime - shopping (kjøp)! From our perspective, Norwegians shop as much or more than Americans. The difference is that shopping in America takes place in big suburban malls while Norway still has a healthy, vibrant downtown - bustling with people, and more importantly people with purchases. (Be sure to click on each of the photos in the blog to see the images closer up!) We began our day at the Byhaven indoor shopping mall, shown in the photo above, located one block from our apartment. Including Byhaven, there are 4 small indoor shopping malls in Trondheim, each with 3-4 levels of stores selling clothing, boots, accessories, boots, home goods, boots, and food. Did I mention boots? In addition to the malls, about one third of the downtown area is devoted to clothing stores, eating establishments, and hair salons. To support all this downtown retail (in addition to several large suburban shopping centers), Trondheim draws in customers from far and wide. During the summer tourist season, thousands of cruise ship passengers disembark every week to wander the streets and shop.
Next stop: Nordre Gate - the shopping street. We ventured into the Arne Rønning clothing store to look at their stock of Dale of Norway sweaters. A young salesman asked us if we needed help finding anything (first in Norwegian, then in English after we said our "I'm sorry, we only speak English" line). We asked him if they would be getting more sweaters later, or if they were limited to their current stock. He said that they actually stock more sweaters in the summer for the tourists because "Norwegians don't buy sweaters, we have Grandma's who knit them for us."
The next 3 downtown malls were designed in and around old buildings, preserving and revitalizing the architectural heritage of the downtown. The Mercur Mall, shown above, was built at the end of the shopping street inside an old brick building. It serves as the anchor for the shopping street and preserves a beautiful corner next to the Vår Frue Kirke (Our Lady's Church), which dates to the 1200's.
The largest indoor shopping mall is the Trondheim Torg, located next to the city's center square. One wing of this mall preserves an entire street front of wooden shops from the 1800's, shown in the photo above.
Fifteen years ago, Solsiden was an abandoned shipyard and factory district. Today, it is the most trendy shopping and eating district in Trondheim. The mall was built inside a series of brick factories, and you can still see some of the machinery and cranes used for the construction and repair of ships in drydock. The largest grocery store downtown, Meny, is located inside Solsiden. At Meny, we can buy American food imports such as Kraft mac-n-cheese, JIF peanut butter, and Aunt Jemima syrup. Good thing it's only a 10 minute walk from our apartment!

Monday, February 28, 2011

Scenes from Skeikampen

We hope you enjoy the following series of photos taken during the Fulbright Ski Weekend at Skeikampen. Be sure to click on each photo to view them in full resolution.
A cross-country trail crossroads in the morning The trail leading to the ski rental store outside of the Thon Hotel Long shadows across the cross-country trail around Skeikampen Mountain (Click on the photo to enlarge)
The valley at the base of the Skeikampen Mountain
A private cabin and barn near Skeikampen

Hittin' the Slopes!

On Saturday, we rented downhill skis and hit the slopes of Skeikampen! The Skeikampen resort is known for being family friendly, not for its numerous and challenging ski runs - there were only 3 lifts running and 4 runs open (about half the mountain was closed due to lack of snow). Rolf somehow convinced Meghan to try going down the black diamond run - it didn't look that steep from the chair lift - and she nearly peed her pants from sheer terror! (Disclaimer: a Skeikampen black diamond is equivalent to a Colorado double blue...)
(Click on the photo to enlarge the panorama)
Here is the view from the top of the Skeikampen Mountain. In the morning, the sun glinted off small snowflakes suspended in the air and gave the appearance that the sky was full of glitter - we've never seen anything quite like it!
Having conquered the toughest run of the mountain early in the day, we decided to venture into the open areas between the groomed runs. There was 2 feet of very light powder which made for easy maneuvering and great practice! In the photo above, Rolf is "carving the knar in the pow-pow" - or something like that!
After lunch, Rolf went "off mountain" skiing with more experienced Fulbright skiers while Meghan gave some Fulbright first timers a few pointers on the bunny hill. The photo above was taken at the end of the day on our way to return our rental skis.
(Click on the photo to enlarge the panorama)
Above is a panorama of the Skeikampen Ski Village at the base of the downhill ski runs. On the train ride back to Trondheim, our over-stretched stomachs and many sore muscles were reminders of a great weekend!

Fulbright Seminar and Ski Weekend

The third weekend in February, we traveled to Oslo for the annual Fulbright Seminar and Ski Weekend. The event is an opportunity for the 30 Fulbright students and professors to present their research and get to know one another. It's also the only time during the year when all the Fulbrighters get together with their spouses and families.On Wednesday we had a chance to visit the U.S. Embassy for an evening! We attended a seminar on Norwegian and U.S. Climate Policy given by a Norwegian policy expert and the Fulbright Arctic Chair in Svalbard, Dr. Mark Hermanson. The following day, all 30 American Fulbrights gave 10 minute presentations on their research projects. In the photo above, Rolf is introducing his talk, "Cold Climate Residential Envelopes: Achieving the Passive House Standard". Several professors and students who are here on teaching assignments talked about their experiences in Norwegian secondary schools and universities, but we'll save their insights into Norwegian culture for when we return to Minnesota.
After the seminar, we walked to the U.S. Ambassador's residence for a reception. We shook the Ambassador's hand as we entered the house, but then he had to excuse himself to attend an event at the Palace - you can't say no to an invitation from the King! The Art Noveau residence was built in 1911 and sold to the United States government in 1924 for $125,000 - making it the most expensive American residence abroad at the time and requiring special Congressional approval. In the photo above, we are relaxing in the sitting room.
The next morning, the entire Fulbright group (grantees, families, and staff) took a shuttle bus to the Skeikampen Ski Resort located 30 miles outside of Lillehammer (host to the 1994 Winter Olympics). Everyone stayed at the Thon Hotel, where we were spoiled by a generous buffet for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. There were no less than 7 desserts to choose from each night! Above is a view of the mountain from the lodge at sunrise.
(Click on the photo to enlarge)
On Friday afternoon, we went cross-country skiing across the valley at the base of the mountain with Caitlin. It was lightly snowing and the trail was unusually flat for Norway - an easy start to our relaxing weekend!
(Click on the photo to enlarge)
We also went cross-country skiing on Sunday morning - an 8 mile loop around the mountain. The first section of trail wound through snow-laden spruce trees that cast long shadows over the snow. As we wound around the mountain we ascended higher and higher until we reached a wide pass above tree line. After that, it was all downhill!